I'm sorry I've been neglecting you. In my defence,
The wonderful Ms. Jeanette Drury and her husband John came to visit me today. For those of you who don't know who this amazing lady is, she was my guidance councillor/teacher/saviour in high school. They took me out for a wonderful lunch and gilato, and then we crossed the ponte vecchio and went to the Baboli gardens. The Grotta Del Buontalenti was particularly noteworthy. It's difficult to describe- a strange half chapel-half cave with weird sculpture/mosiac/stalagmites and a huge painted ceiling. There was much steep hill climbing, but the views were deffinatley worth it. A very excellent day indeed.
As for my activities during my virtual absence, there was much of the usual museum/church/pasta-eating/art-making. Our trip to Ravenna last Saturday deserves mention though, so here are some highlights:
The trip there and back besides some involuntary but neccessary naps, was a series of beautiful views. I remember the trip back a little better (I was more awake). The sun was setting and we travelled through the mountains (or maybe they are just really big hills). There is something about seeing the landsape of a country from a distance that makes it more real. Seeing the cities and villages from above, nestled between giant slopes or meandering up their sides, partially obscured by the abundant forests, sometimes giving way to orhards and fields. I feel as if it lets me feel the shape and taste and colours of Toscany almost better than being inside the city, cornered by buildings on all sides. And when the clouds would come rolling through, sometimes as light rivers of mist and sometimes higher dense masses like strange animals eating the hill tops, I remembered how they looked seeing them from the plane and how strangely wonderful it was to get yet another view of them. I felt so lucky, just to see such a simple and natural, yet beautiful phenomenon. I started thinking about chasing clouds all over the world to see if they look different over more foreign mountains. Italy, I believe you've inspired a traveler's instinct in me. Now I'll never stay put.
I haven't even got to the Ravenna part yet! Our first stop was the Basilica di San Giovanni Evangelista. Possibly the most Indianna-Jones-y thing we've done so far, although, still a very tame version of Indy: We got to see a crypt beneath the alter where they buried the important monks centuries ago. You can see the mosiacs on the floor still and these amazing old columns supporting the cavern-like structure. The coolest part is that it's flooded waist deep in crystal clear, calm ground water. They liked it so much they never tried to unflood it. There's even gold fish swimming around. You can imagine I was very enthusiastic. It was very difficult to stop myself from jumping through the arhway down into it. I wish there had been secret passage ways or something leading off to unknown depths, but I guess I'll have to keep looking.
Ravenna is best known for its mosaics. When the Roman empire was threatened due to the barberian invasions, they moved their capital to Ravenna as it was a port city and the huge military naval fleet was situated there. This was during the era when Christianity was coming into its height as the new offiial religion of the empire. This is why the most important early Christian and Byzantine mosaics are found in this city. It was truly amazing to see these magnificent pieces of art that I've seen over and over again in text books and photos, I think even more than the art work we've seen so far, and we've seen some pretty incredible, famous artworks. I say this beause all the colours are as vivid and vibrant as the day they were made. Paint over centuries fades and gets ruined and has to be restored, but these mosiacs- it's like stepping right into that century. They just sing so clearly. We went to the Basilica of San Vitale and Sant'Apollinare Nuovo. The mosiacs there were remarkable and my neck hurt by the time we left because I spent so long with my head tilted way back looking up, but I think my favourite mosaics, even more than seeing Empress Theodora at San Vitale, were inside the the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. Because it is so much smaller and much darker inside than the large churches, the mosiacs are closer and seem more intimate. The entire ceiling is absolutely covered in beautiful, colourful illustrations and intricate byzantine patterns. The four evangelists star down at you as the lion, ox, eagle and angel from the center ceiling and over the entrance Christ as the good shepard tends a flock of delecate white sheep. Even Saint Laurence, on the opposite wall, preparing to be martyred over a gridiron, rich tendrils of flames swirling over the grate, looks on with such an indescribable expression... Peter Porcal explained that during the transition between the early Christian style of art, which was still rather classical in terms of representing the body and facial expressions true to life and the Byzantine style of very iconic, stiff, unrealistic figures, there are examples of a style caught half way. I think these mosiacs in the mausoleum must be an example of this and I just love it.
And that's about it for Ravenna. On Friday we are leaving for Venice for three days. Holy exciting!
In other news, I purchased a hat which,worn with a long woolly scarf, makes me look quite Fourth Doctor-ish. Sadly, I still have yet to find a shop in which I can procure a TARDIS, and even sadlier, I never passed TARDIS construction class back at the Gallifeyan academy. Perhaps in one of the sweet shops they will have jellybabies...that might make up for it. (I forgive you if you didn't understand this paragraph if you forgive me for writing it)
Ciao and all that.
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